![]() Ideally, if all the wave components had exactly the same wavelength (and the other criteria listed below were met), then all the peaks could be lined up perfectly, forever. Such a situation is actually physically impossible. It would take an infinitely long beam of light in order to have all the wave components have exactly the same wavelength (the proof of this statement is not obvious and requires Fourier analysis). Despite the fact that an exactly single-wavelength beam of light is physically impossible, we can get very, very close. ![]() In fact, having a light beam that is very close to single-wavelength (called "monochromatic") is one of the main reason lasers are so useful. The waves have to be in phase (spectral coherence) Using monochromatic light can allow us to measure or trigger a very specific response in a material (e.g. The phase of a wave describes what part of a sine wave's cycle exists at a certain reference point. I may have misunderstood the main issue people had with custom dark saber blades but I still think matte might look better than the slight reflections people often have on the blade.Two waves that are 180° out of phase will have one wave peaking at the same point in space that the other wave is bottoming out. If the issue has historically been the light-emitting issue If NeoPixels aren't enough maybe using a high-power LED from a high-power flashlight might do the job better. Someone also pointed out the "paint on blade" look was also an issue, which I thought the matte look might solve since when I've seen Black 3.0 it doesn't really look like a paint job. I think I may toy with my idea just to see if the matte deals with the light reflection issue (light coming from outside the blade). It still seems like one of the issues is dealing with light reflecting off of the black section itself or in this case the light bouncing off of the material covering the LEDs. I did see that and thought it was pretty cool! That was also one of the reasons I brought up the acrylic part and edge-lighting. Obviously it would require a possible repaint after a few uses but the aesthetic alone is cool for a collector blade.ĭepending on the availability of the materials I may try and do this project myself but I invite the community to give it a try.īelow are links detailing this and a retail site for it.īy the way since I put a use and where to buy it I think I have to add this statement: If you are Anish Kapoor you CANNOT buy this product or use it at all. I’ve seen a lot of props use acrylic, edge lighting, and black material, but nothing duel ready that uses it. Hypothetically, the paint should do its job at absorbing most of the light from the inside of the blade and it’ll seep through the parts you covered with tape, giving it a nice glow around the edges and in lower light settings /should/ photograph beautifully. ![]() Rig neopixels to run the White color and insert them (likely with a diffuser) in the blade. Spray paint the entire saber with black 3.0, or hand paint it, making sure it’s even. ![]() Using clear polycarbonate tubing, stencils, and Black 3.0 you could create a very light fluid-type pattern like the white streaks on the Dark Saber by laying down masking tape along the blade. So here’s the idea:īlack 3.0 absorbs 99% of visible light and is a commercially available paint comparable to Vantablack (look up the story behind it it’s actually funny). I’ve been thinking recently and with the popularity of NeoPixels and affordable materials I think I know a way that might work, though I don’t have any of the materials myself. ![]() Seen a lot in forums about this a while ago and I want it continue the how to. ![]()
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